We made the short 7 mile trip from Ixtapa Marina to the large harbor of Zihuatenejo in a bit over an hour. This is an eclectic mix of sailboaters, local fisherman and cruise ships….. Zihuatenjo, Mexico
The outer harbor was lined with very “expensitanium” private homes…. Zihuatenjo, Mexico
Affectionately reffered to as “Z-Town”, Zihuatanejo has maintained it’s cruise ship destination status despite a referendum from the locals NOT to build a cruise ship dock here. We think they were right not to do it as it would make this place entirely lose it’s charm….(or what’s left of it!). Zihuatenjo, Mexico
When we first arrived, we anchored near Sun Baby, Beach Access and another cat. But as we were downwind of the big cruise ship and it got rolly, we moved over to the main anchorage later in the day. Zihuatenjo, Mexico
We took the dinghy ashore (wet landing) as Cindy likes to call a “beaching” of the dinghy. Lots of Pangas, shops, restaurants and TOURISTS just “off the boat”…. Zihuatenjo, Mexico
Sailboats at anchor, “Majesty of the Seas” and the ever present Panga…..Mexico remains….”mud huts and mansions”….. Zihuatenjo, Mexico
Beautiful homes lined the harbor here in the golden light of the evening….We saw the appeal for a few weeks, but not as a permenant place to be. Zihuatenjo, Mexico
The next morning, we rose early for the 40 mile trip to “Papanoa”, our intermediate stop on our way south to Acapulco. Zihuatenjo, Mexico
We passed this group of rocks that supposedly have good diving, but like most of coastal Mexico….not much in the wa of visibility. Zihuatenjo, Mexico
A whale of a tail!… Papanoa, Mexico
Quite a show. First one, then the other. And sometimes both at once. Papanoa, Mexico
A whale of a tail!… Papanoa, Mexico
The tails of whales!… Papanoa, Mexico
More fun with whales’ tails. Papanoa, Mexico
A wave goodbye! Papanoa, Mexico
After one night at Papanoa, we came upon the famous Acapulco, Mexico. We heard nothing but bad things from cruisers about Acapulco. Our experience here however was short, but delightful. Acapulco, Mexico
On the left is the SW OUTER side of Acapulco Bay. The far left is where the famous “cliff divers” do their daring dives which it turns out we got to see the next day. Acapulco, Mexico
The west side of the harbor looks like Tiburon in the San Francisco Bay with tropical weather. The east side looks like Miami Beach (circa) 1950. Acapulco, Mexico
This group of private homes was right off the Acapulco Yacht Club which we would call home (on a mooring) for the next two nights. A “Beach House” with a view. Acapulco, Mexico
This is the side that looked like Miami Beach of the 1950’s and 60’s. Acapulco is really more of a place where the Mexicans come to vacation that it used to be 40 years ago. She’s a bit old and faded, but still has charm and style. Acapulco, Mexico
Bienvendos Acapulco Yacht Club. In our travels so far, this is the first yacht club that has had reciprocal privileges with California Yacht Club. It was good for one nights free stay on the expensive moorings. Acapulco, Mexico
We asked a local at the yacht club what we could do in one day to see Acapulco? He said catch the 1pm “Clavados” (Cliff divers) and go to the old Flamigo Hotel of Hollywood yesteryear fame…..So we did! Acapulco, Mexico
We arrived a little early to get a good “stand” (no seats) and before the big tourist rush showed up. Acapulco, Mexico
First these brave young (and a few not so young) lads climb up the face of this cliff via several routes. Acapulco, Mexico
When they get to the top, a little display is made and the audience gives them a big hand. Acapulco, Mexico
I remember seeing this on ABC’s “Wide World of Sports” when I was about 10 years old. They would show this diving/bravado contest every year on TV. Note the small shrines to the right of the photo. Not everyone comes back alive…. Acapulco, Mexico
Here, our happy warriors prepare for the big plunge. A few from lesser heights, but none-the-less daring do on the part of all involved. Acapulco, Mexico
A big pause before the leap to get the tourists involved…..It works! Acapulco, Mexico
And then the “Quantum Leap”. Note that one must clear the rocks at the bottom of the ravine!…. Acapulco, Mexico
Here we had a duo. Acapulco, Mexico
After the morings excitement, we went for lunch at the old Flamingo Hotel. Now past her glory, this was Hollywood central in the 1940’s and 50’s. Johnny Weismuller of Tarzan fame was the most regular and even lived out much of the end of his days in Acapulco. John Wayne, Fred McMurray and actors of Hollywoods “Golden Era” were all regulars. Acapulco, Mexico
The outdoor restaurant at the Flamingo Hotel Acapulco, Mexico
Looking at the “Boca Chica Channel” that we had sailed through the previous day. Acapulco, Mexico
Older, but still expensive homes lined cliffs around Acapulco Bay. These were next to the Flamingo. Acapulco, Mexico
As we were on a mooring, we took our dinghy to the dock at the AYC. Beach House can be seen behind Cindy’s right side. Acapulco, Mexico
Beach House on the mooring at AYC. Acapulco, Mexico
Cindy loves the water and misses swimming if we aren’t diving. The AYC had a nice outdoor restaurant and a lovely pool which Cindy and Scott enjoyed. Acapulco, Mexico
Alas, we bid Acapulco farewell to the rising sun over Bahia Marquez just south of Acapulco Bay. We would be doing a day/night/day to Bahia Huatulco, our last Mexican port before Central America. Acapulco, Mexico
We had made reservations at Marina Chahue’, the jump off point to crossing the feared Gulf of Tehuantepec. The marina doesn’t take their reservation policy too seriously and basically takes first come/first serve. This put us in a bit of bind as we ended up on a VERY surgy dock with no water or power. Huatulco, Mexico
We were told Marina Chahue had a “fuel dock”….. We’ll this wall was the dock. Dockmaster (very helpful!!!) Enrique took a 200 liter container, went to the local Pemex and siphoned the diesel into your tank…..That’s a fuel dock!…. Huatulco, Mexico
As we weren’t gong to be happy sitting at a hot, surgy dock with no power or water. We looked to see if the weather window was open to cross the Tehuantepec. This gulf is most unusual due to it’s geography and can get 70 knot gales going across it for day with horrible steep short period swells and choppy water. Definitely NOT something anyone wants to sail through at the wrong time. Enrique told us that two boats a year are lost in the Gulf due to hurricane like conditions…… Huatulco, Mexico
It turns out that we had a 30 hour weather window before the next gale was predicted with it’s cold front coming down from Texas. So we told Enrique we wanted to take it and check out the next day. Huatulco, Mexico
This was our dock. Lovely to look at with a new private home being built next to it near the entrance, but your boat would be shaken to pieces if you stayed here for more than a day. Speaking of lovely to look at, note the professional model in the photo…. Huatulco, Mexico
The harbor officials, customs officials and immigration officials were very sensitive too our weather window and with Enriques help, we got our international clearance papers in less than an hour and a half. We sailed up the beach toward the 16th parellel as instructed and broke due east just south of Salina Cruz. The weather window was IDEAL and we even had wind (very light) from the south. However, our next “adventure” was just about to begin, unbeknownst to us….. Salina Cruz, Mexico
Just as we entered the Gulf of Tehuantepec, we lost speed after taking in a precautionary reef in the main sail. We thought it quite odd that an adverse current of 1.5 knots should come up just as we did this……The next morning while maneuvering to avoid a Mexican fishing panga (and then through the bad area of the gulf), we noticed that our port engine which sounded fine, had no thrust. I jumped over board in glass like condidtions and found myself in beautiful warm clear water with about 1,000,000 jelly fish. A few stings later, we believed we had a broken transmission……SO, we diverted from our intended route of going straight to Bahia del Sol, El Salvador to Puerto Quetzal, Guatemala. We ordered a new transmission via telephone (satelitte) and had our dear friend Scott Adam ship it express via DHL to Guatemala City. We were assured by the locals in Puerto Quetzal we could be hauled out of the water for the swap out….SEE “Ship’s Log” post for all the details…… Puerto Quetzal, Guatemala
Here is Miguel Oscar (our clearing agent) with Carmina, Alejandra, the representatives of Guatemala’s Customs, immigration and harbor masters’ offices. Puerto Quetzal, Guatemala
This group of archetecture students studying marina construction showed up on the dock from the University of San Carlos in Guatemala City (2 hours to the north). Puerto Quetzal, Guatemala
Puerto Quetzal is avoided by most cruisers as it’s an industrial port. Though we arrived at night (very easy well marked, nice condiditions), we were a bit surprised to see the USCG Cutter “Chase” right next to us at the cruise terminal dock. The sailors were partying up at the restaurant and it seemed like some scene out of “Apocalypse Now”. The sailors were all very nice. They’re job is mostly drug interdiction. Here for four days. we got to know a few of the Coasties and had a great time. Puerto Quetzal, Guatemala
Cindy, Carmina and niece Alejandra down from Guatemala City. Carmina as usual was very helpful in our stay here. Puerto Quetzal, Guatemala
We took advantage of our lay over waiting for our “haul out” (which never happened…see “Ship’s Log” for all details), to do a day trip to the former Colonial Capitol of Guatemala….Antigua. Note the volcano, “Fuego” (fire), venting in the distance. Antigua, Guatemala
We ordered the transmission on Friday, it arrived in Guatemala on SUNDAY!…Carmina drove me up to Guatemala City where we took a quick tour of her house and picked up the transmission. Round trip….5 hours. Unfortunately, our photo card hiccuped and we lost our photos of Antigua…..stuff occurs… We are planning to be back here in a few weeks to visit Lake Atitlan and meet the whole Robles Clan…. Guatemala City, Guatemala
As we were given the “manana” line one too many times re: haul out (see Ships Log for details), we packed up our marbles (transmission) and headed for the one day trip to Bahia del Sol, El Salvador. We’ll miss “Mina”, but see her in a week when she drives down to El Salvador (6 hours) to visit and take us land touring in Guatemala’s high lands. Adios Carmina….we’ll see you soon. Puerto Quetzal, Guatemala
