This Photo Gallery is the companion to our “Ship’s Log” entries of June 8th and June 10th, 2010… The wreckage of the WW1 “Seeadler” (Sea Eagle) that we had heard about at Maupiti (our last island). Jerome (with Cindy) was the owner of our sister Switch 51, “Na Maka” – (Spirit of the Sea). Mopelia Atoll, Society Islands – French Polynesia
This was the end of the anchor chain and the end of the line for “Seeadler” who was driven ashore in a sudden westerly. The Captain was not aboard and in his gentlemanly style, didn’t blame the officer in charge, but said, “It must have been a Tsunami!”…. Mopelia Atoll, Society Islands – French Polynesia
This is one of two 105 mm guns that the “Seeadler” had hidden in it’s WW1 raiding days. The other is today salvaged and on display at Pomare Park in Papeete, Tahiti. Mopelia Atoll, Society Islands – French Polynesia
This 105 mm shell casing was after 93 years….a permanent part of the reef. Mopelia Atoll, Society Islands – French Polynesia
No, not a wench, a winch!….:) This was the worm gear of the bow windlass of the ill fated ship. She was about 285 feet long, had three mast and a 900 hp diesel auxiliary engine. Mopelia Atoll, Society Islands – French Polynesia
This anchor was not the one that the chain broke on. It’s with what’s left of “Seeadler” in only 10-12 feet of water. Mopelia Atoll, Society Islands – French Polynesia
The flukes of this traditional anchor are telling of the vessels time in history. This style of anchor has long been abandoned except for rocky anchorages. Ironically, that is exactly what Mopelia’s outer reef is. Mopelia Atoll, Society Islands – French Polynesia
You can envision the huge shackle pin that would have gone through this anchors stock. I estimated the anchor weighed nearly 1000 lbs. Mopelia Atoll, Society Islands – French Polynesia
Originally American built and registered, “The Pass of Balhama” was captured by a WW1 German U Boat, renamed “Seeadler” (Sea Eagle) and legally commissioned by the German Government as a “Privateer”. A raider who had license to take enemy shipping where it could be found. The “Great War” as WW1 was known was the last major conflict to allow such licensed privateering. A tradition that went back to those like Sir Francis Drake, licensed as a Privateer by the British Government. Many say “Pirate”….Depends I suppose on whose point of view you take. Mopelia Atoll, Society Islands – French Polynesia
Easy as it was shallow, but difficult as it was a very surgey dive. This was a calm day as well. Mopelia Atoll, Society Islands – French Polynesia
Jerome’s son, Leo (10 years old) wanted to do this as a snorkel with us. As you’ll soon see, he’s quite a fish himself. We all couldn’t get over how this photo looks a bit “Jaws-ish” and that Jerome will save Leo from certain (boredom) of looking at yet another black tip reef shark…..:) These are one of the hampsters of the shark world; have no fear. Mopelia Atoll, Society Islands – French Polynesia
Leo couldn’t resist a bit of hamming it up for the camera and was quite a delightful dive model as the day progressed. After all, for a 10 year old this trip is quite an adventure and to get to snorkel on a genuine ship wreck just added to the excitement. Mopelia Atoll, Society Islands – French Polynesia
This appears to be part of the drive shaft/propeller system from the ships 900 hp diesel engine. Mopelia Atoll, Society Islands – French Polynesia
Unknown parts. But awfully big. Mopelia Atoll, Society Islands – French Polynesia
Leo loved to dive down with Dad and get into the act. Mopelia Atoll, Society Islands – French Polynesia
This is part of the crank shaft of the huge engine that was the auxiliary to “Seeadler”. Mopelia Atoll, Society Islands – French Polynesia
In the early 1900’s, an engine of this horsepower was not small. Mopelia Atoll, Society Islands – French Polynesia
Leo poses with remains of the crank shaft. There are books, websites and societies dedicated to the amazing Count Felix von Luckner. He even had a major role in saving the German city of Halle from a hopeless battle; saving perhaps thousands of lives on both sides at the end of WW2. Mopelia Atoll, Society Islands – French Polynesia
John Wayne starred in a WW2 movie called “Sea Wolf”. The character is most certainly based on Count Felix von Luckner’s WW1 exploits. Notably, (check me out), it was the only role where John Wayne ever played a German officer. Mopelia Atoll, Society Islands – French Polynesia
When we first found this anchor chain in only 25 feet of water, we were very excited and felt it would lead us to the missing “deep anchor” at it’s end. But alas, the mystery lasted for a few more days. This is the chain section that snapped off the deep anchor that was protecting “Seeadler” from a west wind. The swell height and force of the wind with the Seeadler’s cumbersome characteristics and weight allowed this chain to simply snap causing her to drift up on the western side of Mopelia Atoll. Mopelia Atoll, Society Islands – French Polynesia
After 93 years, the chain has mostly become part of the reef. At either end, the weak links can be seen. Mopelia Atoll, Society Islands – French Polynesia
We had heard about the “deep anchor” and asked the local family (only 9 people live on Mopelia) where it was. Calami (patriach of the family) knew all about the wreck and had photographic reproductions taken by the crew when the vessel was aground. These were given to him by a visiting German cruising yacht a few years ago. He drew us a map and told us it was off the end of the entry pass in 18 to perhaps 20 meters of water. We looked at that depth (60-65 feet) for several dives with no luck. Then, Jerome and I were at 100 feet and saw the flukes rising out of the sand in the middle of the pass almost 50 feet below us. It was our second dive, so we didn’t go to it. The next day, Cindy and I did only the one dive to 45.1 meters (148 feet) and took these photos of the fateful anchor whose chain broke causing the loss of “Seeadler” in 1917. Mopelia Atoll, Society Islands – French Polynesia
Here it lies, perhaps forever. Maybe one day the Von Luckner Society will send an expedition to salvage it? You never know. Mopelia Atoll, Society Islands – French Polynesia
Mopelia Pass has been perhaps the surprise gem of our diving experience this season. The coral reef is not over fished and is very healthy. Schools of wonder travel the pass. Gray Reef sharks, Lemon Sharks, White Tip Reef Sharks, Black Tip Reef Sharks, huge parrot fish schools, Napolean Wrasse, Many large anemones with clown fish, healthy hard coral and our first siting of a Triton Trumpet shell. The Triton’s Trumpet is the protector of the reef from the Crown of Thorns Starfish.
Every dive near the pass where the remains of “Seeadler” are, we found the underwater world at it’s best. Mopelia Atoll, Society Islands – French Polynesia
Cindy makes a great model and she LOVES to school with the fish. Mopelia Atoll, Society Islands – French Polynesia
We saw male Gray Reef sharks attempting to mate aggressively biting the backs of females. Here you see juvenile Gray Reef sharks. We saw many schooling that were only a foot or so long. Mopelia Atoll, Society Islands – French Polynesia
Schools and schools of a wide variety of fish. Cleaner stations busy. We could have stayed near this site for many more days. The vagaries of wind and sea (weather) and our expiring visas would finally push us on our way. Mopelia Atoll, Society Islands – French Polynesia
In the pass with it’s strong outflowing current were many undercut ledges. Soldier fish in large schools hid under these shelves. Mopelia Atoll, Society Islands – French Polynesia
After WW2, Count von Luckner was said to have brought his private yacht to Mopelia to uncover burried gold taken from his prizes. If anyone knows, we sure don’t. But what a story. Mopelia Atoll, Society Islands – French Polynesia
In the pass we found everything from schooling bump head parrot fish to these lovely coronet fish and coral hinds. A few sleeping tawny nurse sharks too! Mopelia Atoll, Society Islands – French Polynesia
We leave you with what we always believe is the sign of a healthy reef. Dozens of these large anemones with their clown and damsel fish were everywhere!….Until next time…..ENJOY! Mopelia Atoll, Society Islands – French Polynesia
