2009-11 Hawakinuiva\’a Outrigger Canoe Race / 2009 Galapagos - Marquesas - Tuamotus - Tahiti and the Society Islands Photos, 2009 Galapagos - Marquesas - Tuamotus - Tahiti and the Society Islands Voyage - Photos, 2009 Nov Photos, 2009 Photos, By Date Photos, By Voyage Photos, Photos, Voyages / By [email protected] The start was right in front of our boat. They all just sort of lined up, a gun went off and so did they!….FAST. Hawaikinui Va’a Outrigger Canoe Race – Huahine Of course at the beginning with all the boats bunched up, it was quite exciting to see the high rate of speed they were going. We didn’t realize it, but the leaders could sustain about 8-9 miles/hour the entire 22 mile distance. Hawaikinui Va’a Outrigger Canoe Race – Huahine The leaders were about to make the turn by the reviewing stands and the large crowd that had assembled; it was pretty exciting. Hawaikinui Va’a Outrigger Canoe Race – Huahine Over the next three days, we would see as many as 400+ boats following the regatta in one capacity or another. Some were just family in small speed boats. There were coaching launches, “Mother Ships” (sponsors), spectators, Officials, Government Escorts (as seen here) and just us plain old tourists! Hawaikinui Va’a Outrigger Canoe Race – Huahine Here was the first turn where the boats jockeyed for position and passed the reviewing stands. I’m sure their were more people lining the waterfront here than lived on the entire island. Hawaikinui Va’a Outrigger Canoe Race – Huahine Imagine being in the middle of the Pacific Ocean and seeing this group coming by out of nowhere….. Hawaikinui Va’a Outrigger Canoe Race – Huahine The fleet quickly upped anchored and assembled following their favorites. We tried to keep up with the leaders. The race would be a neck and neck affair between Shell Va’a (7 time winners in a row vs. OPT (Tahiti Post Office)…. Hawaikinui Va’a Outrigger Canoe Race – Huahine This is “Azzizah” with Semia from Brazil and her manly other half from France. We first met them in Tahauata, in the Marquesas. Hawaikinui Va’a Outrigger Canoe Race – Huahine As you can see from this next series of three photos. The conditions which are never truely shown over water, were a bit more than you might see by eye. The swell was running at over 6 feet and this outrigger will start to disappear. Hawaikinui Va’a Outrigger Canoe Race – Huahine Here you can start to see the bow go down and the wave will literally envelope the front of the outrigger. Taking on water and it’s removal is one of the greatest challenges for the crews. They all have rubber skirts like kayakers to keep the water out, but they are not completely effective. Hawaikinui Va’a Outrigger Canoe Race – Huahine See the bow start to dip below the waves. The guy in the middle would occasionally stop paddling, move his protective “skirt” out of the way and bail….by hand!….They do not allow any other type of water removal system. Hawaikinui Va’a Outrigger Canoe Race – Huahine You get the feel here for paddling for 4 hours across the open ocean….. Hawaikinui Va’a Outrigger Canoe Race – Huahine As you can see, an inordinate of amount of multihulls were in the spectator fleet. A mix of cruisers, self handled charters and groups…. Hawaikinui Va’a Outrigger Canoe Race – Raiatea & Tahaa This was the “mother ship” (sponsor) of the Shell Va’a team and our next door neighbor at Marina Taina in Papeete. Msr. Mooche (sp?) is the owner of the Shell Oil concession in all of French Polynesia. A very nice guy to meet and we have enjoyed a great relationship with his Captain Stanley and his lovely wife, Ivanna. Hawaikinui Va’a Outrigger Canoe Race – Raiatea & Tahaa As the favorites, it was no great surprise that the Shell Va’a team had about a one minute lead on Team OPT. Their strategy paid off as it turned out more than their sheer speed. They took a sightly different approach to the island and had a more favorable current off the reef. After 4 hours, they won by only about one minute. Hawaikinui Va’a Outrigger Canoe Race – Raiatea & Tahaa Tahiti Nui, an inter island passenger and cargo vessel was doing a large spectator business and had a front row seat at the finish line…. Hawaikinui Va’a Outrigger Canoe Race – Raiatea & Tahaa This is the main town on Raiatea and it has a modern shopping mall at the waterfront. You can see the luxury “mini cruise ship”, – Bora Bora near the finish. Hawaikinui Va’a Outrigger Canoe Race – Raiatea & Tahaa Part of this “event” was well….let it all hang loose…..if you gather my meaning….:) Vive la France! (Polynesia)….. Hawaikinui Va’a Outrigger Canoe Race – Raiatea & Tahaa The crowd cheered, babies were kissed…..:) Hawaikinui Va’a Outrigger Canoe Race – Raiatea & Tahaa After 4 hours, the third and fourth place teams were in a sprint to the finish… Hawaikinui Va’a Outrigger Canoe Race – Raiatea & Tahaa At the end of the race, we anchored “Beach House” by the east past entry motu you can see in the back right. We dinghied over to friend Jerry Woods house Jerry owns a Catana 53 catamaran and we met him nad his wife Linda in Ensenada, Mexico in December 2007. We’ve stayed in touch, and Jerry invited us to come over when we got here…. Jerry Woods’ house…Raiatea, French Polynesia Linda wasn’t here and Jerry was working on the house. He invited us over and voila!… Jerry Woods’ house…Raiatea, French Polynesia A lovely home and Jerry was about to take us for the local tour to boot. Jerry Woods’ house…Raiatea, French Polynesia Pretty cool, uh?… Jerry Woods’ house…Raiatea, French Polynesia This is the new waterfront complex in Uturoa. It’s really nice to see a modern, but tasteful development of the area. Uturoa, Raiatea – Society Islands – French Polynesia This is the main street of Uturoa. Hardware stores and shopping available. Uturoa, Raiatea – Society Islands – French Polynesia Just a few minutes from downtown is one of the major boatyards of French Polynesia, Raiatea Marine. If we had to haul out in FP, this is where we would have come. Uturoa, Raiatea – Society Islands – French Polynesia Talk about Deja Vu. No, you’re not seeing “Beach House” with a new paint job. There were only 12 Switch 51’s ever made and this was the one that was made right after ours. “Tatajuba” was spending the “off season” hauled out at the yard in Raiatea. Uturoa, Raiatea – Society Islands – French Polynesia Now you know what our boat would look like in red!… Uturoa, Raiatea – Society Islands – French Polynesia It felt like “old home week” here. This is “Uliad” who we first met in mid Pacific from the Galapagos to the Marquesas. They put the boat up here on “the hard” (as we say) for the off season too. The coating you see is wax to protect the hull (which is dark blue). Uturoa, Raiatea – Society Islands – French Polynesia This is the small marina on the NW side of Raiatea. You can see Bora Bora’s famous mountain top about 25 miles to the NW. Uturoa, Raiatea – Society Islands – French Polynesia This is the OPT “mother ship” at the start of day 2. Today’s race would be a sprint of about 10-11 miles INSIDE the reef that Raiatea and Tahaa (in the distance) share. Uturoa, Raiatea – Society Islands – French Polynesia The course had several twists and turns and would show an incredible 400+ boats with the spectator fleet….The traffic was unbelievable. Amazing there were no collisions. Hawaikinui Va’a Outrigger Canoe Race – Raiatea & Tahaa Mayhem…No other way to put it. I had to spend most of my time dodging everyone! Hawaikinui Va’a Outrigger Canoe Race – Raiatea & Tahaa The reef narrowed in several spots and often where there were some fairly good turns. These collection points were quite the scene. Hawaikinui Va’a Outrigger Canoe Race – Raiatea & Tahaa You can see where the brown water is. It’s about 2-3 feet deep there an sharply drop off to safe depths for we boaters. Caveat Emptor (Boater Beware!)….. Hawaikinui Va’a Outrigger Canoe Race – Raiatea & Tahaa On this the final day, “Embrum” was exiting the reef to get a good view of the front runners and cheer on the Shell Va’a team. Hawaikinui Va’a Outrigger Canoe Race – Bora Bora Bora Bora, unlike Raiatea-Tahaa has only one entrance. The boats had to take the navigation marks to a particular side and would try and take advantage of a breaking wave on the reef to speed them along. Hawaikinui Va’a Outrigger Canoe Race – Bora Bora This is the famous Church on Tahaa as we headed for the final strech to it’s main town at the north end of the island; Gendarmes escorting. Hawaikinui Va’a Outrigger Canoe Race – Raiatea & Tahaa With a bit more perspective. We anchored here for a bit, but it wasn’t very comfortable so we relocated to a nice cozy deep bay near the exit of the west reef where the boats would be leaving from the next day to Bora Bora. Hawaikinui Va’a Outrigger Canoe Race – Raiatea & Tahaa This was the spectator fleet lined up for the last and final day. Excitingly, OPT had won the sprint and now tied, Shell Va’a and OPT would battle it out on this the last and deciding day. Shell had won this regatta 67 years running and the Molokai Channel regatta in Hawaii, 4 years in a row…..Can you smell an upset? Hawaikinui Va’a Outrigger Canoe Race – Bora Bora As I, your diligent photographer was taking aim at the lead boats, this site entered my lens…. Hawaikinui Va’a Outrigger Canoe Race – Bora Bora What’s amazing is that despite this lovely femme fatal sunning herself in the spectator fleet. You will note that absolutely NO ONE took any notice. These guys take this outrigger race stuff seriously!… As it happened, she was just in “my way” as I was taking aim at the leaders………………………… Hawaikinui Va’a Outrigger Canoe Race – Bora Bora There were several turns. The first at the corner of the reef at Bora Bora. The competitors were allowed to take this very close to the turning mark which had 7-10 foot breaking waves on it. You could see some that got a little too close too. Hawaikinui Va’a Outrigger Canoe Race – Bora Bora The first reef turn was made an now the pace picked up for the turn at the reef entrance. The finish line actually was 180 degrees from this spot. Steering and navigation would be key. OPT had a lead, but not insurmountable. Hawaikinui Va’a Outrigger Canoe Race – Bora Bora With only about 2 miles to go, Shell Va’a was in trouble. OPT had a 200 yard lead. Every time Shell made a push, OPT answered. Hawaikinui Va’a Outrigger Canoe Race – Bora Bora Just before the finish, the “Cat Fleet” anchored in about 7 feet of water. The sky, the water and the boats with about 5000 spectators at the finish made for quite a sight. Hawaikinui Va’a Outrigger Canoe Race – Bora Bora This gal was so overheated, she jumped in for a swim Hawaikinui Va’a Outrigger Canoe Race – Bora Bora OPT won. Shell Va’a upset. It made big news in the islands. Msr. Mooche was most gracious to the OPT team and I’m sure …..”they’ll be back”….. Hawaikinui Va’a Outrigger Canoe Race – Bora Bora Jimmy Buffet said it best…..”There’s a party at the end of the World”….. About 5000 people, 400 boats were at the finish near the old Hotel Bora Bora (now abandoned). Hawaikinui Va’a Outrigger Canoe Race – Bora Bora The Shell Va’a Party Boat wasn’t quite as full a expected due to the upset, but a good time was had by all. Hawaikinui Va’a Outrigger Canoe Race – Bora Bora Well the day after the festivities had settled down, we realized that we were in ….Bora Bora! Vaitape is the town and main harbor. Bora Bora – Society Islands – French Polynesia This is the high speed cat that takes tourists too and from the airport to their hotels or the main pier. The airport is on the reef! Bora Bora – Society Islands – French Polynesia In 1977, this is exactly where I left to return to Hawaii from my most western destination in the South Pacific. The town was 10 times the size it was then and the entire harbor had been built up from the simple wharf it was back then. Bora Bora – Society Islands – French Polynesia Alain was a famous French small boat sailor from the 1920’s. I’m not positive, but he may have been the first Frenchman to solo circumnavigate a small boat?…Any help out there? He sailed through French Polynesia and is famous in French sailing lore. Bora Bora – Society Islands – French Polynesia More of a restaurant and small Pension style hotel. The Tahitian owner and his American ex-pat wife have owned and run this place where cruisers are most welcome. We took a mooring here for a few days as the anchorage was 90+ feet deep. Bora Bora – Society Islands – French Polynesia Jen and Raffe were on “Umoya” out of South Africa with another couple. I believe Jen’s brother and girlfriend. We met them the previous week snorkeling with Mom and Baby whale. They were a lot of fun and we were sorry we didn’t get to spend a bit more time getting to know them. Perhaps in South Africa…? One never knows….. Bora Bora – Society Islands – French Polynesia For a lot of cash, you can take an “underwater” Disneyland style tour of the reef at Bora Bora. You sit underneath with 5 others and a guide, looking out the glass bubble. We were told they go down to about 100 feet. Bora Bora – Society Islands – French Polynesia This is how the locals store their boats on most of the “outer islands”. A wheel and pulley contraption that raises and lowers them. Bora Bora – Society Islands – French Polynesia Even the outrigger canoes are sometimes stored this way for a a quick get-a-way. Bora Bora – Society Islands – French Polynesia Though we thought we would be staying a lot longer, we decided to head back to Raiatea/Tahaa and just couldn’t find a spot we liked, so exited the motu bound reef pass on the North East side of the island and headed back to our sweet little spot at Fare, Huahine. Tahaa – Society Islands – French Polynesia We stayed in Fare just one night and wanted to leave early in the morning as we were sure we could get back to Moorea by nightfall. We were hoping the Mom and Baby whale might still be in the area….. Huahine – Society Islands – French Polynesia At around 5:30 am we left Fare and got this gorgeous sunrise as a farewell gift to our time in the “Sous le Vent”, The islands under the wind….We’ll be back! Huahine – Society Islands – French Polynesia After easily making Oponohu Bay, Moorea by dark, we stayed the night and thought we would move around to the “Tahiti side” (east side) of the island. Leaving Oponohu Bay. Moorea – Society Islands – French Polynesia On the North East corner of the island, we saw this really nice “Beach House”. Moorea – Society Islands – French Polynesia We ducked in for a look see and to see if we liked anywhere in particular to anchor. This is the main ferry terminal that runs between Moorea and Papeete. About a 60 minute ride. Moorea – Society Islands – French Polynesia There is a small marina in Moorea with apparently very attractive rates….if you don’t mind being “out of town” (Papeete that is). Moorea – Society Islands – French Polynesia There is a small marina in Moorea with apparently very attractive rates….if you don’t mind being “out of town” (Papeete that is). Moorea – Society Islands – French Polynesia